DIY SUB install (moar power)

[Ron Flood]

hi, im gonna do a quick walk thru to wire a SUB up in a 9th Gen..

first off gotta plumb the power wire. you can pass the wire thru the door panel.

inside theres a hole, its up behind stuff, hard to find, but its there....

pass the wire thru the fender, its a little easier if u remove the little plastic V...

the only screw you have is the one on the door trunk lock, everything else just clicks apart...
sorry a seem to have lost those pics.... did i not save them on my fone????? ugghhhh
anyways just run the wires along the other wires all the way to the trunk....

i have an aftermarket NAVI, so it made it alot easier for the remote wire(AMP CONT)im guessing its the right one.. lol

the dash pulls aprt easily if you have nylon interior tools... do not use a srewdriver.. go spend $3 on eaby and buy a couple flat nylon interior tools, they are amazing!

sorry i wasnt as in depth as i could have been, but i do hope to have helped anyone whos thinking about it, where to start etc..... its a relatively easy process, can be done on a saturday...

 

[jasonandre]

Nice pedals

 

[Ron Flood]

Nice pedals

thanks jason, they're actually for the 8th.. eBay... grrrr....... coz the gas pedal is totally wron... maybe will have to break down and spend another $40 to get the right ones... lol lucky tho alot of things are swappable and u can make shift work... lol

 

[webby]

thanks ron!

 

[Bulkybear]

Good guide but just a suggestion, there is a grommet you can run the power through above the gas pedal. I would only use the door jam temporarily. Too much of a chance for seeing the wire and it possibly shifting to the hinge and you closing the door on it causing a very damaging short.

 

[Ron Flood]

no problem webby.. i never knew that Bulkybear, I'll have to take a look and maybe do that.. altho i understood alot of 8th gen'ers have done the same thing as I have... but I dont think it really rubs, but who knows over long term.... ? hehehe

 

[Bulkybear]

The reason I know is because that's exactly what I did lol. But the only spot I could find to transition the cable from the door jam to inside the car was just passing it over the door seal and letting the door shut on it. I figured its on the seal it won't hurt it. But after a while it started to put a flat spot in the wire. And I hated that part of the wire being visible when the door was opened. Even if you found a spot in the door jam I don't know about that prevents that I just get uneasy about wires through door jams lol. Not trying to harp on ya. Just a suggestion.

 

[Ron Flood]

totally agree on not wanting to look at it Bulkybear ..... but sorry i have no idea where you are talking about with the hole near the gas pedal, could you please upload a pic so we all can see... mucho gracias mi amigo

 

[Bulkybear]

It's that rubber grommet in your pic to the right of the connector at the top of the pedal

 

[Ron Flood]

oooooooh.... i tried that one.... poked a knife way in there.... but then said forget that....im scared of cutting a wire...... so how did you do it?

 

[Bulkybear]

Long screw driver. Taped the wire to in and pushed it through the side from the engine bay. Then went inside the car untaped it, pulled the screwdriver out and fed the wire through.

 

[Bulkybear]

 

[Ron Flood]

coolness, thanks alot Bulkybear... looks good....

 

[Bulkybear]

Np

 

[squiggy]

Out of curiosity, where did you mount the inline fuse coming off of the battery?

 

[webby]

Mine have always just been loose by the battery. One's I've had in the past were just a short distance from the actual connection. It was usually just zip tied to other wiring or whatever near the battery. Like this -

 

[ADExternal]

Adding to what webby said. Its recommended to have it closest to the batter because if something go wrong until it reaches the fuse, it will burn the copper/metal and everything around it. The burnt smell of metal, upholstery, rubber and human isnt so great. The concept is you want to isolate your system from the car. I think that was squiggy concern

 

[squiggy]

Adding to what webby said. Its recommended to have it closest to the batter because if something go wrong until it reaches the fuse, it will burn the copper/metal and everything around it. The burnt smell of metal, upholstery, rubber and human isnt so great. The concept is you want to isolate your system from the car. I think that was squiggy concern

I am aware of the need to mount it close. I was just curious as to what location people are actually mounting them. Part of my concern is possible interference with all the electronics (fuses, control module, etc) being within that one foot range.

webby

Unfortunately, I don't have that kind of fuse. The one I have is more of a block style. Similar to a distribution block.

 

[squiggy]

Bulkybear

Thanks for the grommet pics. They were super helpful!

 

[zakky12]

I have a problem guys. I just installed my kicker 700W amp, and Rockford Fosgate 12" sub, I have it powering on (ran the remote through the rear driver window so it turns on with the car and off withe the door(was a tough one) anyway, I used, what I think is a line out converter, from Walmart. (Looks just like this- http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ssHH3Bf2vew/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4.html ) and I'm not getting audio. I hooked up the ground to my amp, and ran speaker wire from the middle deck speaker (a weak sub I think) to the left rear (+/-) of the loc. Then rca from the rear out to the amp. Please help.