- Staff
- #1
I didn't actually think to do a DIY for this as I wasn't expecting to be as involved as it ended up being. So, I figured I would at least post some stuff that would be helpful for those attempting to do this.
PRL provides an elbow so you can cut your upper coolant hose to prevent heat transfer due to touching the intake. If you do not do this, see picture below for how it touches.
You will need to remove the support bracket for the stock intake box to prevent it from eating the filter. It will also cause the intake to sit too high and touch a metal piece and rattle like crazy. See picture for clearance. Yellow circles are where each part would touch and rattle.
This intake does not come with any mounting brackets. It will end up resting on something. Mine is resting on an engine mount and part of a shifter cable bracket.
Rerouting of wires after stock intake box bracket removal. I just zip tied them to the existing wires and a steel line.
As always, if anybody has any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!
- Buy antifreeze.
- There are two bolts on the underside of the air intake pipe coming from the wheel well.
- There are two bolts and a bracket on the underside of the plastic piece of the intake manifold.
- There are two coolant hoses on the underside of the stock aluminum runner.
- If you want to use the P2R gasket on the engine/manifold, you will need a third stud from PRL. If you use a thermal gasket, it goes between the RBC and the PRL adapter.
- The MAP sensor is connected to another wire that has a cover and bracket. You will need to remove the cover and bracket in order to reroute them.
- The hood prop will not fit in the holder. I wrapped it in electrical tape so it doesn't scrape paint off of anything.
- ------>didn't work. Tape wore through from rubbing.
- Only swap one injector at a time in order to avoid getting gas everywhere. I put them all in the fuel rail itself first and then carefully and as evenly as possible pushed the entire fuel rail down to insert the injectors into the RBC.
- For the coolant plug, make sure to use some thread tape or a sealant or it will leak.
- There are plastic spacers under the fuel rail (on the studs) you will need to reuse these.
- There is a spot on the throttle body for the map sensor connector. This IS NOT used. Transfer the stock sensor to the RBC and use that.
- Drive by wire connector will not reach the throttle body. You will have to follow the wires back through the bundle and untape them to reroute (red line in the picture). This requires removing the cover (see red circles. This is only some of them.). In order to get some slack, make sure to run the wires behind the coolant hose and another sensor wire as noted with yellow circles. You will reroute them with the bundle that comes down towards the rear of the cover (as seen in the second picture).
PRL provides an elbow so you can cut your upper coolant hose to prevent heat transfer due to touching the intake. If you do not do this, see picture below for how it touches.
You will need to remove the support bracket for the stock intake box to prevent it from eating the filter. It will also cause the intake to sit too high and touch a metal piece and rattle like crazy. See picture for clearance. Yellow circles are where each part would touch and rattle.
This intake does not come with any mounting brackets. It will end up resting on something. Mine is resting on an engine mount and part of a shifter cable bracket.
Rerouting of wires after stock intake box bracket removal. I just zip tied them to the existing wires and a steel line.
As always, if anybody has any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!
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