Beeshabo
Well-Known Member
- 169
- 190
I wait until my iMid displays a 15% oil life before I change it....I just make sure the level is good (check the color at the same time). That's it. So, so, so easy!
Oil change 10,000 miles
- Thread starter Sinub
- Start date
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
______________
Yep. Lighter oils = better gas mileage. The engine doesn't have to work as hard.
Start up? There really isn't that much difference between 0w, 5w and 10w oils. So I think the start up considerations are generally overblown.....although....... operating in harsh winter environments is certainly one reason to use synthetics. There, even a 10w-whatever will flow amazingly well at freezing temps... even sub zero temps. See an oil's "Pour Point" when comparing different lubricants.
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
__________________
When using regular oil, that'll work!
Beeshabo
Well-Known Member
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- 190
I let the dealer handle that.
I do changes at the 15% mark. I also run 0w20 Royal Purple (yes it exists and yes it's expensive) with a Wix Platinum filter. If you want to run a better oil to set your mind at ease then Napa carries RP and our independents carry Amsoil.
Another way to put your mind at ease is I also have a 2012 EX sedan with just over 140k miles. Oil changes at 10k miles and it still runs like new. This is one reason I dont doubt Honda on their decision. Therefore I've been running it in my Si without worry.
Another way to put your mind at ease is I also have a 2012 EX sedan with just over 140k miles. Oil changes at 10k miles and it still runs like new. This is one reason I dont doubt Honda on their decision. Therefore I've been running it in my Si without worry.
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Glockcoma
Well-Known Member
im going every 5k on mobil 1 0w-20 (oem honda filter) ... its easiest for me to remember and i can rotate tires every service. its not so much the oil i dont trust after 5k as it is the filter i dont trust.
Id suggest a Wix filter (Napa Gold/Platinum). They even have a cold start up valve to help prevent dry starts.
BtownSi
Gotta Love It
I just hit 5k yesterday in mine, i'm showing that I'm at 40% oil, however I am going to get it changed next week as I'm making a drive from Boston to Indiana next weekend and wanna be on the safe side.
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
For those testing oil for the first time pay close attention to its Viscosity. Because of the destruction of VI improvers you might think you're using a 0w - 20 when in fact it has sheared down to a 15, 10 or worse.. i.e., a thinner oil. Here's a quote from the link above:
In other words, one way your lubricant could be losing its viscosity is through the loss or shear down of the viscosity-index (VI) improver. For example, if you are using a multi-grade SAE gear or engine oil such as a 10W-30, this oil contains an additive known as a viscosity-index improver. During use, the VI improvers can sheer down and break apart, causing the viscosity of the oil to decrease. Remember, exposure to high heat is the biggest factor in causing the sheer of the viscosity-index improver.
Multi-grade oils aren’t the only ones that can thin due to high heat. Oils operating at extreme high temperatures can begin to crack thermally. The high temperatures can sheer/crack the oil molecules into smaller molecules, which causes a decrease in viscosity. If you are having trouble with a mineral oil losing viscosity at high temperatures, look at switching to a synthetic oil for the application.
Keep in mind that viscosity can go up, down or remain unchanged. The list of root causes that can alter a viscosity reading is quite extensive. This is why viscosity has become such an information-rich measure of used oil condition. After all, when viscosity has not changed, you can rightly conclude that the many known viscosity-altering factors are probably not occurring. What's not so good is when viscosity moves suddenly with no obvious explanation or warning. You then must determine what this means and why it happened.
It's safe to say that viscosity will not change without a forcing event or condition that incites the change.
In other words, one way your lubricant could be losing its viscosity is through the loss or shear down of the viscosity-index (VI) improver. For example, if you are using a multi-grade SAE gear or engine oil such as a 10W-30, this oil contains an additive known as a viscosity-index improver. During use, the VI improvers can sheer down and break apart, causing the viscosity of the oil to decrease. Remember, exposure to high heat is the biggest factor in causing the sheer of the viscosity-index improver.
Multi-grade oils aren’t the only ones that can thin due to high heat. Oils operating at extreme high temperatures can begin to crack thermally. The high temperatures can sheer/crack the oil molecules into smaller molecules, which causes a decrease in viscosity. If you are having trouble with a mineral oil losing viscosity at high temperatures, look at switching to a synthetic oil for the application.
Keep in mind that viscosity can go up, down or remain unchanged. The list of root causes that can alter a viscosity reading is quite extensive. This is why viscosity has become such an information-rich measure of used oil condition. After all, when viscosity has not changed, you can rightly conclude that the many known viscosity-altering factors are probably not occurring. What's not so good is when viscosity moves suddenly with no obvious explanation or warning. You then must determine what this means and why it happened.
It's safe to say that viscosity will not change without a forcing event or condition that incites the change.
- Staff
- #50
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
_____________________
Excellent. Same oil, same car as mine. Will test after the Dragon, or about 8 months and 11,000 miles.
- Staff
- #52
I would have gone longer on the fill, but I wanted fresh oil for The Dragon.
- Staff
- #53
- Staff
- #54
- 52,105
- 22,314
did you put amsoil in again?
- Staff
- #55
Yep!
supasubu
Active Member
Anything wrong with the oil filter that Honda puts in along with full synthetic? I don't mind the extra cost...
Paul-R
Well-Known Member
im at 10k did my first oil change with honda 0w20 oil and honda filter at 5k miles. about to do my secound one with the same oil and filter . this shouldnt be an ssue use what honda recommends.to be real none of us are hard core racers so there is no reason to use anything different other then what honda recommends.
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
_____________________
The Amsoil filters are made by Hastings last time I checked. Should be above average. There's been an issue with the smaller filters used on imports (read Honda) whereby they had to adjust the change interval due to extreme heat from poor filter placement. So instead of 15,000 miles you need to change them at 7,500 even though you may leave the Amsoil in longer.
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
___________________________
Actually, over the years I've never had IRON in double digits. Average is 9, per Blackstone and my own experience with other Hondas. (No expereince with the relatively new 2.4) There's nothing to be concerned about (worry starts when over 100ppm IRON) but thought i'd mention it. Your 48 ppm is probably from engine being new... and tight. Will compare notes when I test mine in a couple weeks.... except my test is going to include considerable high speed and high RPM driving.
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
__________________________
Thanks again for posting this. A lot of us have strong opinions about oil... but a test like this is proof about its effectiveness. And after our recent MTF problems who can doubt the value of fluid analysis...yo!
