MarkA - 2012 Si Sedan

[squiggy]

 

[MarkA]

Installing Ingalls camber bolts. Attempt 1:

I started installing one of the bolts. I went to the SPC Performance web site to watch an instructional video. They list the correct bolt for the 2012 Si as 81290, while RedShift lists 81280 (which is what I have). It gave me cold feet, so I put the OEM bolt back in. Meanwhile, I emailed Chris at Redshift, and he replied *immediately* (on a Sunday night!), reassuring me that 81280 is the correct one. Ingalls Engineering also lists 81280.

So, next chance I get, I'll put the bolts back in.

The bolt the Ingalls bolt replaces is pretty hefty. The bolt head is 19 mm. The nut on the other end is 22 mm. The torque spec is 116 ft-lb, which is pretty tight! ( I'm assuming it is the one called the "knuckle damper pinch bolt"). I didn't have a 22 mm wrench, so I used an adjustable wrench for the disassembly. When I decided to put the original bolt back in, I went to AutoZone and spent $8 for a 22 mm box wrench. It was well worth it.

 

[MarkA]

Brake fluid replacement:

My Motul RBF600 has arrived, and I am ready to replace my brake fluid. Does anyone know: a) what volume is required? I have 3 x 500 ml bottles, so I'm sure I have enough. I'm just not sure if I need to open the third bottle right away, or keep it on standby. b) Does the old brake fluid need any special disposal? I was planning to dump it on top of some weeds growing in back of the house.

 

[Dar-Dar]

Brake fluid replacement:

My Motul RBF600 has arrived, and I am ready to replace my brake fluid. Does anyone know: a) what volume is required? I have 3 x 500 ml bottles, so I'm sure I have enough. I'm just not sure if I need to open the third bottle right away, or keep it on standby. b) Does the old brake fluid need any special disposal? I was planning to dump it on top of some weeds growing in back of the house.

I'm sure you'll need less than a quart of brake fluid. A quart is probably enough for your brakes and clutch. I heard you can mix the brake fluid with motor oil and drop it off at a local auto parts store that handles disposing wastes like motor oil/trans oil/etc.

 

[MarkA]

It's been a productive weekend! I replaced my brake fluid with RBF600, and installed the Ingalls Front Camber Bolts. Both jobs went without a hitch. I also covered the chrome "H" on the front grille with black Plasti Dip. I have never liked that little splash of chrome on the front of the car. Now, it looks way cool!

 

[MarkA]

I went to post a "DIY" thread on Plasti Dip-ing the front emblem, but I see there are already several threads on the many uses of Plasti Dip. So, here's some pictures of my weekend project. The car needs a bath. Once the Plasti Dip has had a chance to dry for at least a day, I'll hit the car wash, and see how it holds up. Once the car is a little cleaner, I'll put up some more pictures.

After the first coat:


After the fifth coat:


The tape comes off!




Looks nice, but the black part of the grille that I didn't spray is still too glossy for my taste. I'll be spraying that next.

 

[andre12dbsi]

Looks good. I like the look of the front blacked out.

 

[MarkA]

Stay tuned. More pictures coming. Did you notice the OEM rear sway bar leaning against the wall near the right edge of the photo? I'm still not sure what to do with it. At least it doesn't take up much room!

 

[Nix]

Lol... I've got two kickin around!

Nice job on the emblem Mark!

 

[MarkA]

Thanks. I'm hoping it will look even better after I get the dead bugs cleaned off the leading edge of the hood and bumper.

 

[MarkA]

Brake Rotors and Carbotech XP10 pads - brake rotor screws.

My next HPDE is next week. My Carbotech brake pads arrived yesterday, and I have a brand new set of rotors to mate them to. Which got me to wondering about those screws that hold the rotor to the hub. People say that they are only used in the factory to keep the rotors in place as the car is going down the assembly line, and aren't necessary if you're putting a wheel on right away. However, at the Continental Challenge race, I was watching a mechanic changing rotors. Not only did they put the screw in (only one per rotor), he used an impact driver to put it in TIGHT! I was only able to get about three of the 8 out, and had to drill the rest out. I'm thinking of replacing them, just because the race team did. Does anyone have any comments?

 

[squiggy]

^^^ jrotax101

 

[jrotax101]

I've never had any issues myself, and race teams that have to change rotors in endurance races don't run them either, with no side effects. Not sure why the CSCC guys put them in.

 

[Nix]

Impact screwdriver can get them out easy. Since you already drilled them out I wouldn't worry about it at all. I've been without em for at least a year. No issues.

 

[MarkA]

Impact screwdriver can get them out easy. Since you already drilled them out I wouldn't worry about it at all. I've been without em for at least a year. No issues.

I tried the impact driver. And the PB Blaster. 3 came out. 5 made little round holes where the Phillips head cross used to be. I think they use a thread locker on them when they put them in.

 

[Nix]

Wow! And your car is new. Mine were at least a couple years old when I took em out. I used a $5 harbor freight driver that I hit with a hammer.

 

[jrotax101]

Buy a reverse thread bit.. just smaller than the bolt threads.

 

[MarkA]

Buy a reverse thread bit.. just smaller than the bolt threads.

I have no idea what that is. I use a drill to remove the screw head. Then, when the rotor is off, you can remove the threaded part of the screw from the inside.

 

[jrotax101]

the threads on the drill bit go the wrong way so you can reverse the stud out after you strip the head.

 

[MarkA]

Blackened front emblem:

Here are some new photos of my Si with the black Plasti Dipped front emblem in the wild. I still haven't made up my mind about whether or not to spray the glossy black piece. What do YOU think?