Wiring dash cam with fuse connectors. Totally lost

[NoTorque]

I purchased a dash cam that was on sale because it was a good price but it also had connectors that allowed it to be connected to the fuse box.

These connectors are fuses ie they plug right into where the fuses would go.

I ran the cable through the a pillar and all but I have zero clue which socket is 12v , acc, and ground. Every guide I look at deals with tapping the fuse box for wiring but I just need to know which fuse is which but all the diagram lists is the amperages.

It has 3 connectors but I cannot figure out which fuses to plug them into.

1) yellow - power 12v (constant I believe)

2) red - ACC

3) black - ground

Can anyone provide some help?

 

[fergy016]

I hooked my amp up to #6 since it is only powered when the ignition is on.
Be sure to use a similar amp fuse to what was originally in the slot.

The fuse will only give you power either constant or switched, but it will not supply ground.

 

[NoTorque]

So maybe that one would be the acc (red), but it looks like it's already in use. Can you still use it then?

If the fuse can't be ground then why would they include that?

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[fergy016]

I would have to research which slots are live (constant) when the ignition is off.
I don't know why they would include the black in that style fuse, it would be better as an inline fuse and hook it to the nut the fuse box is tied down with or a bolt that goes into the car chassis.

 

[NoTorque]

So with a circuit tester I tested the fuses with the car on and off and used #10 as continuous power (yellow) and #23 as power while car is on.

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[webby]

Interior fuse box

1 − −
2 ACG 15 A
3 SRS 10 A
4 Fuel Pump 15 A
5 Meter 7.5 A
6 Power Window 7.5 A
7 VB SOL* (15 A)
8 Door Lock Motor 2 (Unlock) 15 A
9 Door Lock Motor 1 (Unlock) 15 A
10 − −
11 Moonroof* (20 A)
12
Accessory Power Socket
(Center Console)* (15 A)
13 − −
14 Seat Heaters* (15 A)
15
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Unlock)* (10 A)
16 − −
17 − −
18 − −
19 ACC 7.5 A
20 ACC Key Lock 7.5 A
21 Daytime Running Lights 7.5 A
22 HAC 7.5 A
23 − −
24 ABS/VSA 7.5 A
25 − −
26 − −
27
Accessory Power Socket
(Front)
15 A
28 Washer 15 A
29 ODS 7.5 A
30
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Lock)* (10 A)
31 − −
32 Door Lock Motor 2 (Lock) 15 A
33 Door Lock Motor 1 (Lock) 15 A
34 Small Lights 7.5 A
35 Illumination 7.5 A
36 − −
37 − −
38 Left Headlight High Beam 10 A
39 Right Headlight High Beam 10 A
40 TPMS* (7.5 A)
41 Door Lock 20 A
42 Driver’s Power Window 20 A
43
Rear Passenger’s Side
Power Window
(20 A)
44
Front Passenger’s Side
Power Window
20 A
45
Rear Driver’s Side Power
Window
(20 A)

46 Wiper 30 A

Engine compartment fuses

■ Circuit protected and fuse rating
Circuit Protected Amps
1
EPS 70 A
− −
ABS/VSA Motor 30 A
ABS/VSA FSR 30 A
− −
Main Fuse 100 A
2
IG Main 50 A
Fuse Box Main 60 A
Fuse Box Main 2 60 A
Headlight Main 30 A
− −
Rear Defogger 30 A
− −
Blower 40 A
− −
Sub Fan Motor 20 A
Main Fan Motor 20 A
3 − −
4 Left Headlight Low Beam 10 A
5 Starter DIAG, ST MG 7.5 A
6 Right Headlight Low Beam 10 A
7 − −
8 − −
9 − −
10 − −
11 Oil Level 7.5 A
12 Fog Lights* (20 A)
13 Driver’s Power Seat Sliding* (20 A)
14 Hazard 10 A
15 FI Sub 15 A
16 IG Coil 15 A
17 Stop 15 A
18 Horn 10 A
19 Premium Amp* (20 A)
20 INJ (15 A)
21 IGP 15 A
22 DBW 15 A
23 H/L LO 20 A
24
Driver’s Power Seat
Reclining* (20 A)
25 MG Clutch 7.5 A
26 − −
27 SMALL 20 A
28 Interior Lights 7.5 A
29 Backup 10 A


lots of fuse info & what's powered etc in this thread as well
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/fuse-tapping-not-working-as-intended.7472/

as someone else mentioned:

if you have an Si, you may have noticed that you can turn the car off, yet the moonroof, power windows and accessory ambient light kit to name a few, stay alive with the key out until the driver's door is open and closed.

 

[NoTorque]

OK the setup I tried with 10 and 23 didn't work. Back to the drawing board.


Yeah I saw that post that's why I tried fuse 23 since it's open already.


But no dice. I'm wondering if something is wrong

 

[webby]

Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?

 

[NoTorque]

Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?

Well I honestly didn't think it would require a ground (during testing) for the camera to turn on, but currently it's connected to the clutch pedal because it clipped on there perfectly. But I'm not sure where to ground it. I'm going to ground it by stripping that fuse connector off and putting on a hook or loop on it.

Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?

 

[NoTorque]

Maybe I need a multimeter to check each fuse port?

Also can I use a fuse that's already in use by something else?

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[webby]

Yes, most people call them fuse taps. Auto parts stores will have them. Maybe @Pauly99to17 can show you his fuse panel or help. I know he's got a lot hooked up to his.

 

[Pauly99to17]

Yes, you can use a slot already in use. Take out the fuse that is there and put in bottom opening of fuse tap. Then put your new fuse in the top slot.

 

[Pauly99to17]

If I understand correctly the dash cam came with a yellow and red tap. I would think you only need to use one to get power. The DC one. The easiest ground is a bolt on the side wall behind the fuse box. I'm pretty sure this is why your camera is not working...it's not grounded correctly.

Ground bolt is back here. Get a flashlight and look behind the fuse box. There are a few other factory wires already grounded here. You will need to cut off the tap thing on the black wire and add an o ring connector.

 

[NoTorque]

If I understand correctly the dash cam came with a yellow and red tap. I would think you only need to use one to get power. The DC one. The easiest ground is a bolt on the side wall behind the fuse box. I'm pretty sure this is why your camera is not working...it's not grounded correctly.

Ground bolt is back here. Get a flashlight and look behind the fuse box. There are a few other factory wires already grounded here. You will need to cut off the tap thing on the black wire and add an o ring connector.


View attachment 52313

View attachment 52314

You were right it wasn't grounded properly and that's why it wouldn't turn on.

The fuse set up I used (23 for ignition and 10 for shut down power) does work, phew. It switches over to fuse 10 when you turn the car off which tells it to shut down, pretty cool.

That ground bolt back there is insanely hard to get to . I feel like a scrub but I used the door bolt.

 

[Pauly99to17]

Great. Enjoy!