What is fully needed to do a rear and front camber adjustment for proper tire wear

[keven lincks]

Ok for us few that are not gear heads which believe me I wish I was. What is essentially needed. Correct me as I go 1 front kit which includes two bolts, Rear camber kit which I only see having the arm they do not show anything else with it like a new bracket?

 

[Dar-Dar]

For a normal wear on tires, make sure your wheels are aligned properly. In many cases, a bad toe wears out your tires much worse than bad camber.

 

[keven lincks]

Not totally understanding I am trying to do the correct thing when I drop my car with the HR springs and not trying to cut any corners. So from what I have read I need rear camber kit and front kit then get an alignment done after the drop. Oh and put the rear sway bar on.

 

[Dar-Dar]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'not trying to cut any corners'.

 

[keven lincks]

pretty much doing what is told by someone who knows what they are talking about. Do not go the cheap right because you get what you pay for. In addition if you go the cheap route something always goes wrong like how you guys in one thread where talking about tire wear will cost more overall if you do not get everything adjusted right

 

[Monk]

Not totally understanding I am trying to do the correct thing when I drop my car with the HR springs and not trying to cut any corners. So from what I have read I need rear camber kit and front kit then get an alignment done after the drop. Oh and put the rear sway bar on.

1st thing you need is a chart that tells you the measurements for a correct alignment(which will be the same stock or lowered)......... then there should be some numbers for how much you lower it to get to spec.(that should be available from the company you're getting the parts from).
Also if you give up some numbers on here there are peeps that can help you with this, but you need to write out what parts are being used and how low you're going.

 

[keven lincks]

Oh wait, I am not doing the work lol I just want to buy all the stuff so I can go to the guy and say here you go here is everything. I don't want to get there and have him look at me and say you need this or that.

 

[Monk]

Oh wait, I am not doing the work lol I just want to buy all the stuff so I can go to the guy and say here you go here is everything. I don't want to get there and have him look at me and say you need this or that.

You still need to give up the numbers on how low you want to go, so some one on here can give you the answers.
More info...........

 

[keven lincks]

Oh **** sorry the H&R springs 1.5 and 1.3 I believe

 

[keven lincks]

I have purchased this so far. Godspeed rear camber kit, H&R springs, Progress 22mm rear sway bar, Moog rear sway bar end links, and Front camber bolts. I wonder if I need anything else. I read a long documentation on exhausts and with leaving my engine stock right now I am not seeing much of a benefit other than sound and most of them are to loud for me I love the tanabe medallion but it is not out yet. The magnaflow sounds good but I am not sure if 850 is worth it for something that is not going to release much hp from the engine.

 

[9thgizzyguy]

Um i think your good with what you have it just about covers what you need to have it done right

 

[keven lincks]

Saweet now I am looking at the invidia q300 exhaust it sounds pretty tame until you step on it I wonder if there is any release in hp from the engine though cannot find any dyno tests on it.

 

[corey99699]

I have purchased this so far. Godspeed rear camber kit, H&R springs, Progress 22mm rear sway bar, Moog rear sway bar end links, and Front camber bolts. I wonder if I need anything else. I read a long documentation on exhausts and with leaving my engine stock right now I am not seeing much of a benefit other than sound and most of them are to loud for me I love the tanabe medallion but it is not out yet. The magnaflow sounds good but I am not sure if 850 is worth it for something that is not going to release much hp from the engine.

I have the exact same setup minus the end links,you're good to go shouldn't need anything else.You're gonna love that setup it will feel like a different car.

 

[corey99699]

By the way I also have the q300 it's great too

 

[Nix]

Camber and toe settings: From redshift motorsports


Street "Mild Performance"
Front Camber: -1.0° (1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)

Front Toe: Factory setting (0 toe.)

Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°
Rear Toe: 0.05° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the safe end of the available factory range.)

The less Rear camber you run, the better your tire wear will be but the less grip you will have in back for extreme handling maneuvers. I would recommend -0.8 for anyone super concerned about tire wear and -1.5 if you want to retain the best rear grip at all handling levels (because that is where Honda originally set it.) Rear Toe: 0.05° (a positive number is toe in)
The safe end of the available factory range.


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4° One Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.

Front Toe: 0 toe Factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.


Rear Camber: -1.5° Provides better rear grip for extreme handling.
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
The more aggressive end of the available factory range.



(edited rear toe on mild setting with info from following posts)

 

[Glockcoma]

Oh **** sorry the H&R springs 1.5 and 1.3 I believe

with those springs rear camber will still be in spec after the toe is adjusted.

 

[the insider]

Camber and toe settings: From redshift motorsports


Street "Mild Performance"
Front Camber: -1.0° (1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)

Front Toe: Factory setting (0 toe.)

Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°
Rear Toe: 0.16° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the safe end of the available factory range.)

The less Rear camber you run, the better your tire wear will be but the less grip you will have in back for extreme handling maneuvers. I would recommend -0.8 for anyone super concerned about tire wear and -1.5 if you want to retain the best rear grip at all handling levels (because that is where Honda originally set it.) Rear Toe: 0.16° (a positive number is toe in)
The safe end of the available factory range.


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4° One Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.

Front Toe: 0 toe Factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.


Rear Camber: -1.5° Provides better rear grip for extreme handling.
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
The more aggressive end of the available factory range.

Just a concern with your rear toe numbers (I realize that they're not "yours") - I believe the number for rear toe for "mild performance" is not correct. If I recall the factory total rear toe spec is 0.16 degrees. The "street aggressive" of 0.08 degrees per side is correct. If you ran rear toe of 0.16 degrees per side for a total toe of 0.36 degrees you'd smoke the rear tires in no time.

 

[Nix]

Ah nice. Thanks man! Always good to have correct info. I'll edit and fix it, make it a little less.

 

[keven lincks]

Well I guess better to be safe that sorry you can never be to safe unless your in a bubble.

 

[keven lincks]

I will say I cannot wait to get the stuff done the suspension I hope it is going to be a night and day thing. The last car that was any type of sports car was a 96 acura gsr I bought from a guy it had all the stuff done to It that his how I kinda fell in love with the whole tuner thing. It was dropped with good quality suspension gear was naturally aspirated had it tuned, chipped and dyno'd after all was done it was 168hp to the wheel which was not bad at all. However the best thing was the corning it felt like you where on a rollercoaster ride when you went around corners like the wheels where attached to rails. However the guy before me gets all the credit for the car he did all the work even after I bought it. I was the guy who handed him the tools.