Tranny Fluid or Clutch Fluid

[TFK KaNx]

Ok so its cold out here && now my car has been driving a bit different. As in my 2nd gear is quite notchy when shifting from first when I take off && at times, my clutch seems a bit "tight" when I press it in to change into another gear. Talked to my one friend an he said something about changing my fluids in my tranny or clutch... anyother opinions. It would be much appreciated. Also somebody told me told me that a tighter clutch just means my clutch and car is being more and more broken in... just need some feedback or someone to relate to. Thanks

 

[Monk]

1st the tighter clutch is not due to getting broke in. Are your fluids old? I'd start with putting synthetic gear oil in, that will be the best improvement. The cold could be making the clutch fluid thicker.

 

[TFK KaNx]

Then what is it Monk?? && Its a new car with almost 2,000 miles on it... I was also told to do that also.

 

[Monk]

Then what is it Monk?? && Its a new car with almost 2,000 miles on it... I was also told to do that also.

Good more information....... Since it's new the fluids should be ok as a rule, but cold will thicken oil which makes things that have to move around in in it slower, until it warms up.

Synthetics work better in cold than reg oils. Oil in engines will heat up a lot quicker than gear oil due to the faster moving parts, so it takes loner for reg oil to catch up, so what you need to work on is the speed you're using to change gears.... you need to slow the shifting down to sync everything, and the less time the rear end and engine have to get out of sync the less you'll need to catch up, well that isn't done by shifting faster, it's done by having the stick almost ready to move as you push the clutch, and you want the clutch not to have to be pushed any more than it needs to let the stick move. The more distance you push the clutch the more you'll lose the cync.

 

[TFK KaNx]

Good more information....... Since it's new the fluids should be ok as a rule, but cold will thicken oil which makes things that have to move around in in it slower, until it warms up.

Synthetics work better in cold than reg oils. Oil in engines will heat up a lot quicker than gear oil due to the faster moving parts, so it takes loner for reg oil to catch up, so what you need to work on is the speed you're using to change gears.... you need to slow the shifting down to sync everything, and the less time the rear end and engine have to get out of sync the less you'll need to catch up, well that isn't done by shifting faster, it's done by having the stick almost ready to move as you push the clutch, and you want the clutch not to have to be pushed any more than it needs to let the stick move. The more distance you push the clutch the more you'll lose the cync.

Grabbing my chin and pondering... hmmm... very interesting facts monk. I always push my clutch to the floor as I was told to to help make sure I am not wearing out the clutch more than I have to... Sometimes I still don't let go fast enough and can hear it and kinda feel it in my peddle (working everyday on this! Getting better and smooth) so what you are saying is use synthetic gear oil && push my clutch in just past engagement (which is near the top of the peddle)?

 

[webby]

amsoil manual transmission fluid seems to be the fluid of choice. A lot of users on the 8th generation civic si praised it. It seems users are switching over to amsoil here as well.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/amsoil-synthetic-trans-fluid.3302/

 

[Monk]

Grabbing my chin and pondering... hmmm... very interesting facts monk. I always push my clutch to the floor as I was told to to help make sure I am not wearing out the clutch more than I have to... Sometimes I still don't let go fast enough and can hear it and kinda feel it in my peddle (working everyday on this! Getting better and smooth) so what you are saying is use synthetic gear oil && push my clutch in just past engagement (which is near the top of the peddle)?

Yes.......... Warm or cold you want to keep the engine/tranny/drive wheels( I said rear end before but these are ft wheel drive) running at the same rpm, so the longer the clutch is held down ..... the more time that all this stuff has to slow down(and all these different parts are "NOT" going to slow down at the same speed as the other).

This push it to the floor has been been around since the flintstones, the only reason I can think of, that this got started, is they don't know how to explain it correctly, and figure let the synchros take the abuse. You do want the clutch to do it's job.... but it's job is to let the pressure off the system "briefly" , but you need to time this stuff, it's not to be fast or slow it's to feel what's working best at the speed of the car and rpms of the engine.

 

[squiggy]

Yes.......... Warm or cold you want to keep the engine/tranny/drive wheels( I said rear end before but these are ft wheel drive) running at the same rpm, so the longer the clutch is held down ..... the more time that all this stuff has to slow down(and all these different parts are "NOT" going to slow down at the same speed as the other).

This push it to the floor has been been around since the flintstones, the only reason I can think of, that this got started, is they don't know how to explain it correctly, and figure let the synchros take the abuse. You do want the clutch to do it's job.... but it's job is to let the pressure off the system "briefly" , but you need to time this stuff, it's not to be fast or slow it's to feel what's working best at the speed of the car and rpms of the engine.

I had an '03 for 9.5 years and never pushed the clutch to the floor. When I got rid of it it had 130kish miles on it and not a single problem with the transmission. I usually just felt for where the engagement point was and went just far enough past that to ensure a smooth shift. Something for others to keep in mind is that this point will change over time short of making any adjustments to the clutch. Bottom line: be one with the car.

 

[Monk]

I had an '03 for 9.5 years and never pushed the clutch to the floor. When I got rid of it it had 130kish miles on it and not a single problem with the transmission. I usually just felt for where the engagement point was and went just far enough past that to ensure a smooth shift. Something for others to keep in mind is that this point will change over time short of making any adjustments to the clutch. Bottom line: be one with the car.

Good stuff,that. I as well have put high mileage on my cars and MC and never had to change a clutch on them, or gear problems either. Even with this automatic(my 1st) I'll wait to the car comes to a complete stop before changing from forward to reverse/park/etc., and I plan on changing out the Tran-fluid more often than required(sounds like from what I've read that clean fluid is the best thing I can do for it.

 

[mugensi]

Could someone send me the link as to where I can purchase honda's genuine manual transmission oil for my 2012 honda civic si?