NitrousG35
Well-Known Member
- 139
- 63
This thread is being done to give tips to those who want to keep their new Honda Civics clean and shiny. The products that I am showing are just a few of the many excellent products that one can buy. Basically, you can use readily availble products that you can find at Wal Mart or auto stores, or you can order them onlin. Products featured are not necessarily being endorsed by me.
These are the steps that will be covered:
1. Washing
2. Drying
3. paint surface preparation
4. paint correction by hand
5. paint correction by machine
6.sealing
7. waxing
8. interior & glass
9. trim, vinyl and tires
10. spray detailer and spray wax
Step 1: Washing
I use a 5 gallon pail with a grit guard. You can buy a 5 gallon pail at Wal-Mart and there are many detailing stores online that sell the grit guard. If my car is really dirty, I use a two bucket method where I wash the car, rinse the mitt in the 2nd bucket of clean water, then dip it into the wash bucket again. Proper washing is essential because most damage to paint occurs with improper washing techniques.
You will need a mitt to apply the soapy water. Make sure to use sheepskin or microfiber and do not use a sponge that would normally be used for cleaning.
For shampoo, there are a myriad products out there to choose from. Meguiar's and Mother's have great off the shelf products and there are many boutique type shampoos that work well too.
For those who are really anal and want the best way to dispense shampoo, there are foamers that will immerse a car in thick foam.
Step 2: Drying
After the car has been washed and rinsed, it is not time to dry the car. I use large, waffle weave microfiber drying towels. You will want to have several on hand and get the largest that you can buy. I use a Supreme Guzzler waffle weave by Cobra.
For those who are super anal, there are car dryers that use heated air:
Step 3: Paint Correction
Now that the car has been washed and dryed, depending on the condition of the paint, it may need some attention to the surface to remove contaminants such as tree sap or mild water spots. Claybar works best to remove such things. Claybar comes in a regular type of clay for minor contaminants and aggessive claybar for those stubborn surface contaminants. Paint cleaner may also need to be used after claying to get the surface completely clean.
You will also need good microfiber towels to buff the paint. Do not use cotton towels or baby diapers as they will scratch the paint. I personally like Costco mf towels. You can get 36 for about $16. There are also premium towels like Cobra that you can use. I have boxes and boxes of these towels in different sizes and thicknesses, but I have found the Costco towels to be the easiest to use to wipe off polish, wax and sealant.
For those who are unable to wash their cars with a hose, you can use Optimum with a bucket and get great results.
These are the steps that will be covered:
1. Washing
2. Drying
3. paint surface preparation
4. paint correction by hand
5. paint correction by machine
6.sealing
7. waxing
8. interior & glass
9. trim, vinyl and tires
10. spray detailer and spray wax
Step 1: Washing
I use a 5 gallon pail with a grit guard. You can buy a 5 gallon pail at Wal-Mart and there are many detailing stores online that sell the grit guard. If my car is really dirty, I use a two bucket method where I wash the car, rinse the mitt in the 2nd bucket of clean water, then dip it into the wash bucket again. Proper washing is essential because most damage to paint occurs with improper washing techniques.


You will need a mitt to apply the soapy water. Make sure to use sheepskin or microfiber and do not use a sponge that would normally be used for cleaning.


For shampoo, there are a myriad products out there to choose from. Meguiar's and Mother's have great off the shelf products and there are many boutique type shampoos that work well too.


For those who are really anal and want the best way to dispense shampoo, there are foamers that will immerse a car in thick foam.

Step 2: Drying
After the car has been washed and rinsed, it is not time to dry the car. I use large, waffle weave microfiber drying towels. You will want to have several on hand and get the largest that you can buy. I use a Supreme Guzzler waffle weave by Cobra.



For those who are super anal, there are car dryers that use heated air:

Step 3: Paint Correction
Now that the car has been washed and dryed, depending on the condition of the paint, it may need some attention to the surface to remove contaminants such as tree sap or mild water spots. Claybar works best to remove such things. Claybar comes in a regular type of clay for minor contaminants and aggessive claybar for those stubborn surface contaminants. Paint cleaner may also need to be used after claying to get the surface completely clean.



You will also need good microfiber towels to buff the paint. Do not use cotton towels or baby diapers as they will scratch the paint. I personally like Costco mf towels. You can get 36 for about $16. There are also premium towels like Cobra that you can use. I have boxes and boxes of these towels in different sizes and thicknesses, but I have found the Costco towels to be the easiest to use to wipe off polish, wax and sealant.



For those who are unable to wash their cars with a hose, you can use Optimum with a bucket and get great results.
