freddi's build thread!! finally lol.

[Freddiii]

I was thinking specifically of your trip to the dragon this year when posting above. Have fun!

Yes I am still deciding whether to do the springs or the sway bar or both. We'll see.

 

[Nix]

Hey Freddiii - It is possible we are moving south very soon and will no longer have need of snow tires. If things work out and you are interested I may have a set of already mounted snow tires on stock Honda steelies that would fit your car. Then you could definitely get a set of high performance summer tires and not worry about the winter time. I would be looking to unload them pretty cheap.

Just something to keep in mind. I certainly hope to be out of here soon!

 

[Freddiii]

Hey Freddiii - It is possible we are moving south very soon and will no longer have need of snow tires. If things work out and you are interested I may have a set of already mounted snow tires on stock Honda steelies that would fit your car. Then you could definitely get a set of high performance summer tires and not worry about the winter time. I would be looking to unload them pretty cheap.

Just something to keep in mind. I certainly hope to be out of here soon!

Aww thanks for thinking of me! We'll see tho.

 

[Freddiii]

Hi guys! I don't have any new pics really. Just saying hello, I'm still alive. I won't be getting any new parts, only K&N drop in filter ordered n on the way. Trying to save money for the dragon. I hate bills. Thankfully I'll have work study this year so, planning on getting an intake, sway bar, springs, n wheels for next year. The wheels I want dont come in 18" tho right now.

 

[Pauly99to17]

 

[KennyGS]

 

[9thgizzyguy]

 

[jtittle7317]

Cool

 

[webby]

which wheels were you wanting?

 

[Freddiii]

which wheels were you wanting?

These powder coated or painted blue in 18x8 n 18x8.5 or some type of staggered look. With eibach prokit
http://www.velosdesignwerks.com/wheel-collection/item/velos-solo-lv

 

[Freddiii]

Also will be needing brakes now. Any suggestions on brands?? Anyone?? A link would b great. I'm happy the stock pads lasted me 18 months.

 

[webby]

• Available in 18" - 22"

says available in 18's...?

You need brakes...as in pads? Any reason for not going back to the oem pads?

 

[Dar-Dar]

Those are some vip looking wheels.

 

[Nix]

The stock pads are nice and quiet. I've been running Hawk HP Plus and they've been decent but they squawk just as the car stops. Like between 0-1mph. That last little bit where you actually stop. If you are rolling at 1/2mph no noise, going to zero = RAWWWK.

They do bite pretty good though. They stop harder than the OEMs and they don't dust horribly. I am currently switching to PBR/AXXIS Ultimates. I'll let you know how those compare.

I got the Hawks & a set of rotors for less than OEM would have cost. If price was equal I would have stuck to the OEM Honda pads.

 

[Freddiii]

thanks Dar-Dar & Nix. webby i called for pricing n he said 18s werent currently in production. also yes brake pads. as nix mentioned i know oem pads will b costly, tho i havent looked yet.

 

[Nix]

Nah... they're only like $50. You can seriously do the install yourself too. Well, the fronts at least....

from CHH - Front Si brake pads $47.37

List price is $60 but see what your local Honda place wants for em'..... they might price match.

http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...ssis/front-brake-24l/pad-set-fr/45022-tr7-a01

 

[Freddiii]

i hear to do it urself u gotta drain the fluid?? also i need front n rear apparently.... sigh, from my experience the rear should wear slower

 

[Nix]

Nah no bleeding necessary. Unless you really screw something up. The fronts are easy....

First wheel off.

Then....
There should be two bolts holding the caliper on. Undo one or both. I usually just undo one and flip the caliper up. Old pads out and then use either the correct tool... a piston reset thingy... or just use a cheapo C-clamp and a thin piece of wood.

The wood is to protect the piston. Use the C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper to "reset" it. You can crack open the master cylinder also to help relieve the pressure but I've done it twice and forgot to do it both times with no issues.

Look at the original pads when you take them out and line up the new ones the same way. The new ones should come with some metal shim plates. Just match them up the same as the ones you took out. Then use some grease between the back plate of the new pad and any shim plate you are using. Stick the new pads into the caliper and bolt it back on.

Put the wheel back on and do the other side. Then take a short slow drive and hit the brakes a few times to seat the pads. There is a procedure called bedding that you should do. OEM pads you can probably ignore it though. It just involves taking the car up to about 40 and hitting the brakes hard but not stopping fully and repeating it like 5-6 times. You should smell the brakes burning a little bit. This means they are bedded properly. Just don't stop fully until you are done. You don't want the hot rotor and pad touching for an extended time.


The rears require a special tool to reset the piston. I'd pay someone to do those. They should wear slower... odd that they are both done at the same time. Sounds easy enough to do the fronts right? Hahaha... let us know what you decide to do. If you are coming to the Dragon definitely get this done if they are very worn. I get the feeling everyone uses their brakes a lot.

 

[Freddiii]

Nah no bleeding necessary. Unless you really screw something up. The fronts are easy....

First wheel off.

Then....
There should be two bolts holding the caliper on. Undo one or both. I usually just undo one and flip the caliper up. Old pads out and then use either the correct tool... a piston reset thingy... or just use a cheapo C-clamp and a thin piece of wood.

The wood is to protect the piston. Use the C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper to "reset" it. You can crack open the master cylinder also to help relieve the pressure but I've done it twice and forgot to do it both times with no issues.

Look at the original pads when you take them out and line up the new ones the same way. The new ones should come with some metal shim plates. Just match them up the same as the ones you took out. Then use some grease between the back plate of the new pad and any shim plate you are using. Stick the new pads into the caliper and bolt it back on.

Put the wheel back on and do the other side. Then take a short slow drive and hit the brakes a few times to seat the pads. There is a procedure called bedding that you should do. OEM pads you can probably ignore it though. It just involves taking the car up to about 40 and hitting the brakes hard but not stopping fully and repeating it like 5-6 times. You should smell the brakes burning a little bit. This means they are bedded properly. Just don't stop fully until you are done. You don't want the hot rotor and pad touching for an extended time.


The rears require a special tool to reset the piston. I'd pay someone to do those. They should wear slower... odd that they are both done at the same time. Sounds easy enough to do the fronts right? Hahaha... let us know what you decide to do. If you are coming to the Dragon definitely get this done if they are very worn. I get the feeling everyone uses their brakes a lot.

most likely will get someone 2 do it for me. hehe. i must do them b4 school starts at least.

 

[TattooedJp75]

I changed the pads on the civic my wife used to have. Put cheapo's from the auto parts store on ( Do NOT do this)!!
Dusted like crazy, squeeked, wheels were nasty....
Went to local dealership bought OEM pads replaced AGAIN, no more problems
Wheels stayed clean, everything was back to normal. Wifey was happy