Alignment

[Sinub]

Alright, so I have a questions on our alignments.

Does anyone know if you just line up the markings from factory on the tie rods, will it bring toe back to spec?

If not does anyone know what the OE alignment specs are?

 

[Flightmaster127]

Are you replacing components or just out of spec and trying to adjust?

 

[Nix]

I don't have the specs on hand but I believe from the factory front camber is between 0 and -0.5 or so and the rear between 0 and -1.5 is acceptable. Neither is adjustable.

Toe:

the rear toe spec is +0.08 plus or minus 0.04
front toe spec is 0 plus or minus 0.08.


Try to get the toe as close to 0 as possible to minimize tire wear. I would not trust the marks on the tie rods to be correct as toe is a very sensitive adjustment. I would take it somewhere and have the alignment done to be sure it is correct.


The factory alignment is ok but not great for performance.

 

[Sinub]

I am installing camber bolts. I was going to adjust the camber on the front and max it out to -1.75. My outer tire wear is ridiculous, they fold like no tomorrow at the track during cornering.

I was going to align it myself using old school string setup that works pretty well. It's just time consuming.

 

[Nix]

I would put it on the rack for the bolts as well if you want it even. They don't quite always match up perfectly. I like them to be the same numbers L and R even if I could get another 0.2 out of one side or the other. If you're already going in for the toe, I would pop the bolts in and have them do the full alignment. Should not cost any extra, they just actually have something to adjust rather than 5 min on the toe and done.

If you're good the string and plates work. If you're tracking it may be worth it for you to invest in a Longacre camber gauge so you can set it yourself. Same with some good toe plates.

 

[Sinub]

I would put it on the rack for the bolts as well if you want it even. They don't quite always match up perfectly. I like them to be the same numbers L and R even if I could get another 0.2 out of one side or the other. If you're already going in for the toe, I would pop the bolts in and have them do the full alignment. Should not cost any extra, they just actually have something to adjust rather than 5 min on the toe and done.

If you're good the string and plates work. If you're tracking it may be worth it for you to invest in a Longacre camber gauge so you can set it yourself. Same with some good toe plates.

The shop where I work at has the camber gauge and string and plates setup. I'm just debating how I should do the toe. Should I do 0 toe or a bit of toe in.

 

[Nix]

As close to 0 as possible without going toe out. In is more stable than out but 0 will save your tires. The factory range is fine.

 

[Sinub]

As close to 0 as possible without going toe out. In is more stable than out but 0 will save your tires. The factory range is fine.

Only downside to the string method is it requires finesse... Thanks for the help @Nix!

 

[Sinub]

Update:

I installed the front camber bolts. I have the SPC Camber bolt kit. According to them it's supposed to have a range of +/- 1.75 degrees. It would not go more than -0.8 degrees. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Nix]

Did you put the camber bolts in the upper location or lower? Is the "tab" on the eccentric part of the bolt facing the engine?

I could not get more than -1.2 out of mine.

 

[Sinub]

Did you put the camber bolts in the upper location or lower? Is the "tab" on the eccentric part of the bolt facing the engine?

I could not get more than -1.2 out of mine.

Upper location and the tab is facing the engine.

My initial alignment started at +.3

 

[Nix]

Hmmm.... yeah, I don't know then. Those are the only two things I could think of that would limit the adjustment. @Nomar06 has a 15' Si and I think he got more out of one set of bolts. Maybe he knows a trick.

 

[Nomar06]

I installed then per the instructions provided on the upper hole. I had a friend do the alignment at a Honda dealership and he got -1.5 out of them(if I remember correctly).

 

[Sinub]

I installed then per the instructions provided on the upper hole. I had a friend do the alignment at a Honda dealership and he got -1.5 out of them(if I remember correctly).

I did it as the instructions said as well. Well I guess some negative camber is better than no negative camber.

 

[Srs15k24]

I don't know if I'm allowed to post links but...
Chris at Redshift Motorsports really knows his stuff, check out the alignment page. He also has detailed install instructions for camber bolts too.

http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/RedShift06CivicTech.htm

 

[freggie]

After you install did you turn the bolt so it is now pointing the tab? IIRC the tab is one direction and the arrow is the other when first installed. Just turn the bolt 180 degrees.
I ran -1.3 camber up front, 1/8" toe out in the front, 0 camber in the rear and 1/8" toe in rear. Car drove great and did not wander.

 

[dpetro1]

RedShift camber bolt article
http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/RedShiftCamberBoltTech.htm

 

[v3r5e]

Ok so just so this is clear lol I'm buying my eibach pro kit springs very soon and these camber bolts. If I follow the guide that shows what direction to position the bolts I will be able to keep my rear wheels from cambering inward correct? I just want to make sure I do this right because I ruined my tires on my 8th from skipping this step and I definitely want to avoid it this time around.

 

[dpetro1]

No the camber bolts are used in the front only. For the rear you need adjustable rear upper control arms aka camber arms. Spc, dorman, etc all make them.

 

[v3r5e]

Oh ok, thank you!! I've been researching this all week and am new to the whole camber scene