DIY 2012+ Civic Si Braided Steel Brake Lines and Clutch Line Install

trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
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439
Tampa, FL
This install was done on a 2012 Civic Si sedan. The install is fairly universal but I am unsure what differences exist for cars with rear drums. All 2012+ Civics with rear disc brakes will be identical installs.

Clutch line install applies to 2012+ Civic Si, steps are probably similar for others.

Parts List:
  • Braided Steel Brake Line Kit (I used Goodridge part #20028)
  • P2R Braided Steel Clutch line
  • DOT3 or DOT4 Brake Fluid (~1L bottle if flushing the system, or a small bottle if just bleeding)
  • Optional: Speed Bleeders (speedbleeders.com)
    • Front Calipers: SB1010
    • Rear Calipers: SB10125
    • Clutch Slave Cylinder: SB8125L
Tools List:
  • Jack & Jack Stands (or a lift)
  • 19mm Tire Iron, or an impact gun & 19mm socket
  • 10mm Line Wrench (A.K.A. flare nut wrench)
  • 19mm Wrench (size may vary by brake line kit)
  • Socket Wrench and a short extension
  • 12mm & 14mm Sockets
  • Hammer or rubber mallet
  • Torque Wrench (optional, recommended)
  • Funnel
  • Small Tubing
  • Bleeder bag, bleeder bottle, or an empty container
  • Rags
  • Something to drink




Brake Line Install

1. Loosen the lug nuts, if not using an impact wrench. Don't unscrew them from the studs, just break them loose because it's much harder to do with the car already off the ground.


2. Raise the car and put it on jack stands. I chose to start in the rear because it must be bled first after installation. The front of the car has a jack point straight in the center of the lower bumper support, and the tow hook can be used in the rear. The side jack points make great spots for the jack stands.

Note: At my own discretion I raised the front end and left it on the jack since I don't have 4 jack stands and mine were already at the rear. I would never recommend this when actually working underneath the car but in this situation I was in a pinch. Get 4 jack stands and be safe, your jack may not be as reliable as mine was/is. Alternatively, put your wheels under the side jack points at the end of the car being supported by only the jack in case it falls.





3. Place a small bucket or some rags under the brake assembly. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and it will come out of the lines slowly when loosened. Avoid getting it on painted surfaces, skin, etc. Basically, read the warning label on the bottle as it contains some valuable info.



4. Remove the 12mm bolt on the line mounting bracket (lower-left circled bolt in image below).





5. Loosen the 10mm flare nut at the top end of the brake line (top-right circled area in image below) and lift the metal line up a little bit to get it out of the way. Brake fluid will now begin leaking out so put a rag there.







6. Remove the retaining clip with pliers by pulling it outwards.

Note: Make sure to do this after step 5, because when the clip holds the line in place it makes loosening the line easier.



Continued in next post...
 
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trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
7. Remove the 14mm banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper, and set the brake line aside on a rag or in a container. Brake fluid will leak from the caliper's bolt hole so keep a rag handy.





8. Get your new brake line out and ready. The rear lines are shorter than the front two, and the two rear lines are different since their banjo fittings angle in different directions. Find the one that fits right. The bracket on my line slid up and down the line to adjust.



9. Install the new brake line, using the new hardware provided in the kit. Start with the banjo bolt and torque to around 20 ft-lbs. These bolts are hollow and will break if overtightened.





10. Attach the new brake line to the line fittings on the car using your fingers to get it started.

Tap the new retaining clip back on using a hammer or rubber mallet while pushing the end of the new line up into the factory mounting bracket.

Tighten the line with your 10mm line wrench and a 19mm open-end wrench (size of fittings on new line may vary from 19mm).



11. Attach the bracket with the 12mm bolt and you are done swapping the line.



12. Repeat at all four corners of the car. The front is the same procedure as the rear but the lines are positioned slightly differently of course. Below is a picture of the front driver side line, with the fittings and bracket circled; the banjo bolt is on the caliper.



13. Bleed the brakes to remove air from the lines:
  1. Remove the bleeder bolt dust cap, and attach your bleeder hose and bleeder bottle/bag or empty container to the bleeder bolt nipple on the brake caliper.
  2. Using your 10mm line wrench (7/16" for brake speed bleeders), loosen the bleeder bolt just a little bit.
  3. Push the brake pedal down, close the bleeder bolt by turning it back to where it was, and then raise the brake pedal with your hand.
  4. While adding brake fluid to the reservoir so that it always contains fluid (about half full is as low as I let it get), repeat steps 2-3 until there are no air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder bolt, and if you are flushing the system make sure you see the new fluid coming out of the bleeder bolt before you stop.
  5. Fill the reservoir to the full mark with fluid and put the lid back on.
Note: This is a two-man job unless you install speed bleeders, which contain a check-valve that does not let air back in, eliminating the need to close the bleeder bolt before pulling the pedal up each time. Speed bleeders can be bought at speedbleeder.com and the 9th gen Civic with rear disc brakes uses part #SB1010 for the front and SB10125 for the rear. You will need two of each.​



14. Put the wheels back on, lower the car, and torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs.


Finished Product (front-passenger corner):
 
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trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
Clutch Line Install

1. Pop the hood


For step 2, reference Fig. 1 below
2. Remove the top half of the air intake:
  1. Use a philips screwdriver or 10mm socket to loosen the clamps (circled in blue) on the air duct connecting the airbox (circled in white) to the throttle body.
  2. Use pliers to compress the clamp holding the metal tube (circled in green) into the air duct and undo the tube. Now remove the air duct.
  3. Unplug the MAF sensor (circled in red) on top of the air box (circled in white) and unclip the green clip that holds the wiring harness to the airbox.
  4. Use a ratchet with extension to fully loosen the 10mm bolt holding the airbox in place (circled in yellow). It will stay purposely attached to its bracket when loosened; do not attempt to take it out.
  5. Possibly optional: Unclip the top half of the airbox, remove it by tilting the front upwards as if the back side is a hinge, and then remove the filter. (I always do this step but thinking about it, it may be unnecessary)
  6. While pulling the lower air duct (circled in pink) out from the airbox, lift up on the front of the airbox and pull up hard on the back. The back is firmly secured by two bushings mounted on the box that slide off of metal posts, but not easily. This may take a bit of effort. Remove the airbox.
  7. Remove the top half of the lower air duct section by pulling it upwards.
Fig. 1:


For steps 3-5, reference Fig. 2 below
3. Use a ratchet and extension to remove the 10mm nut circled in green. Do not remove the line at this bracket yet, as you will bend the silver-colored bracket while attempting to loosen the line.
4. Use your 10mm line wrench to disconnect the rubber line from the metal clutch line (area circled in blue). Have your small bucket and/or rags handy as brake fluid will now leak out.
5. Remove that retaining clip with your pliers by pulling it outwards.

Fig. 2:


6. Loosen the hard line from the clutch slave cylinder using your line wrench.



For steps 7-10, reference Figs. 4-5. below
7. Remove the entire rubber clutch line and short hard line while they are still completely connected together at the black bracket by the retaining clip and line fittings.

8. While firmly holding the bracket (circled in black) in your off-hand or in a vice, use your line wrench to loosen the hard line from the rubber line's fittings.

9. Use your pliers to remove the retaining clip.

10. Remove the rubber line and hard line from the bracket.

Fig. 4:

Fig. 5:


11. Installation is reverse of removal. The new line will probably not have a squared-off edge on the portion of the line that inserts into the bracket, requiring you to use your wrench (19mm in my encounter) to hold the fittings on the braided steel line in place while using your line wrench to tighten the fittings on the hard line. Then you can put the bracket back on and slide the retaining clip into place.

Note: Make sure the fittings on the new line are all tightened before installing.


12. Bleed the clutch line to remove air from the line:

On the other side of the clutch slave cylinder from step 5 is the clutch line bleeder bolt.​
  1. Remove the bleeder bolt dust cap, and attach your bleeder hose and bleeder bottle/bag or empty container to the bleeder bolt nipple on the slave cylinder.
  2. Note: You will likely need to stand near the driver side turn signal and scoop your left arm underneath the intake manifold area and to the bleeder bolt. This is a very tight squeeze.
  3. Using your 10mm line wrench (8mm if speed bleeder), loosen the bleeder bolt just a little bit.
  4. Push the clutch pedal down, close the bleeder bolt by turning it back to where it was, and then raise the clutch pedal with your hand.
  5. While adding brake fluid to the reservoir so that it always contains fluid (about half full is as low as I let it get), repeat steps 2-3 until there are no air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder bolt, and if you are flushing the system make sure you see the new fluid coming out of the bleeder bolt before you stop.
  6. Fill the reservoir to the full mark with fluid and put the lid back on.
Note: This is a two-man job unless you install speed bleeders, which contain a check-valve that does not let air back in, eliminating the need to close the bleeder bolt before pulling the pedal up each time. Speed bleeders can be bought at speedbleeder.com and the 9th gen Civic uses part #SB8125L for the clutch slave cylinder.​


13. Reinstall the air intake. Installation procedure is reverse of removal in step 2. Don't forget about the MAF sensor.
 
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trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
I did the clutch line but a few weeks ago and it was very much a pain due to the tight area to work in. Didn't get enough pics for a DIY since I was having such a hard time and wanted to get it over with.
 
trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
Dar-Dar said:
How do you like the firmer feel on the clutch pedal?
Click to expand...
It's great. It's not much stiffer but it's definitely noticeably more responsive. I don't have to push the pedal down nearly as far to disengage the clutch. Shifts are quicker as a result. Total PITA to install though due to space limitations.
 
trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
Dar-Dar said:
True. You would have to remove the battery and the battery tray for a more comfortable space to work with.
Click to expand...
I actually ended up having to do that because I dropped a bolt and couldn't find it. The reason it was a PITA was mostly because I dropped a bolt. Always happens to me. But yeah removing the battery and tray gives more room to work with.
 
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bobshur

bobshur

Well-Known Member
1,300
485
Atlanta
Vehicle Model
2012 Civic si
Body Style
Coupe
I had all 5 lines switched to SS braided and I think the clutch made a huge difference,its much stiffer and the feels greatly improved.the brake lines were the biggest improvement,there like a whole new system.add some ebc reds and it will really bring them to life,I plan on doing that someday!when he come out with rotors,or I may wait for the bear calipers.
 
trustdestruction

trustdestruction

Well-Known Member
811
439
Tampa, FL
bobshur said:
I had all 5 lines switched to SS braided and I think the clutch made a huge difference,its much stiffer and the feels greatly improved.the brake lines were the biggest improvement,there like a whole new system.add some ebc reds and it will really bring them to life,I plan on doing that someday!when he come out with rotors,or I may wait for the bear calipers.
Click to expand...
I plan on getting some nice pads, but I am waiting until mine wear out first. Rotors too.
 
bobshur

bobshur

Well-Known Member
1,300
485
Atlanta
Vehicle Model
2012 Civic si
Body Style
Coupe
Yea it's a next year mod,the honda pads are pretty damn good.my 7 th lasted me over 8 years.i got ebc rotors and reds on my 7 th now,and I'm real impressed with the braking of them.
 
B

BMW Alpina

Well-Known Member
8
1
Hello,

I am going to do some custom brake lines for the front brakes of my Honda Fit,
and I think I can use this 2012+ Civic Si Goodridge Front Brake Line.
(I need to find a brake line that is longer than the stock Honda Fit brake line).

But I need your kind help regarding the Length of this Civic Si brake line.

so when you have free time,
could you please kindly help me by measuring the TOTAL length (from the End of fitting to the other end of fitting)
of the FRONT brake line from your 2012+ Civic Si ?

I understand that it might be harder to measure the Goodridge line since it is already installed on your car,
so
I really don't mind if you provided me with the length measurement from your STOCK RUBBER Honda brake line instead.

if you could also measure the REAR brake line length at the same time too, it would be even better,
so I know how much longer is the FRONT line compare to the REAR line of 2012+ Civic Si.

Thank you so much :)
 
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