Mad Modder
Active Member
I have seen 1 or 2 other write-ups on how this is to be done but I figured that maybe I can offer a few more pictures of the whole process as well as my own recommendations.
WARNING: This is NOT a ordinary intake install! It will take 4 or more hours (took me 5 1/2 but I was very OCD with the whole process). If you are scared of cutting and splicing wires then ask for help or consider paying for an install.
Stock engine bay.
Tools that I used for this install.
Jack
Jack stand
1/2" Torque wrench 10-150 ft lbs
1/2" x 12" breaker bar
1/2" x 3" extension
1/2" x 9" extension
1/2" x 17mm socket
1/2" x 19mm socket
Wheel lug nut adapter
Electronic screw gun w/ 3/8" socket adapter
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" x 8mm socket
3/8" x 10mm socket
3/8" x 10mm deep well socket
3/8" x 12mm socket
3/8" swivel
3/8" x 3" extension
3/8" x 6" extension
Small needle nose pliers
Diagonal side cutters
Medium sized pliers
10mm open-ended wrench
Wire strippers/ crimper
Very small flathead screwdriver
Medium sized flathead screwdriver
Panel removal tool
Box cutter
5 different colors of at least 18 gauge wire (preferably red, blue, green, white and gray but I used yellow instead of gray)
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Paper towels
Drop Light
The first step is to remove the negative and positive battery terminal, tie down and battery.
Remove these 2 bolts that hold this piece of factory piping to the battery box and remove the piping.
Remove the battery tray. There are 4 bolts that hold this in place (2 shown here and one on each side of the bottom.)
Loosen the 2 clamps on the stock intake tube from the air box to the throttle body.
Remove the top of the air box by popping off the 2 clips (one on each side) and removing the air filter.
Remove the bottom of the stock air box by removing the 10mm bolt at the bottom right of the box. Lift up the box as far as possible and locate the two 10mm bolts that hold the air box bracket to the frame rail. (This is not very easy to do and the removed bracket as well as where it was mounted are pictured below.) There are 2 wire bundles attached to the bracket. One must be slid off and the other pinched and pushed out. Turn the box counter clockwise so that you can get to the wire bundle (pinch and push type) that is attached to the bracket and remove it.
Air box mounting bracket.
Air box mounting bracket holes are just under the pictured wire bundle.
At this point, we need to jack up the front left side of the car and remove the front left wheel (use a jack stand for safety).
Pictured is the inner fender well, which must be removed by removing the 3 pictured plastic clips. (Note: 2 of these 3 broke when I removed them despite trying to carefully and properly remove them).
2 more clips of the bottom side of the inner fender well must be removed. Once all 5 of these clips are out, maneuver the inner fender well out of the way starting with the bottom front corner and pulling down and back.
Inside the inner fender well is home to the factory intake resonator box which I had previously removed so I have no pics of that. Both the resonator and the "sound tube" must be removed at this time. The sound tube runs up and over the wheel well towards the drivers door.
I removed the ECU to facilitate the routing of new wires but this is not required. It just makes life a bit easier later. To do this, there are two 10mm bolts (1 on each side of the ecu), 2 brackets that hold onto the wire bundle under it that slide off, and 3 wiring connectors on the back of it (these connectors come off by carefully pulling down on the release bar and then gently pulling out on the connector).
WARNING: This is NOT a ordinary intake install! It will take 4 or more hours (took me 5 1/2 but I was very OCD with the whole process). If you are scared of cutting and splicing wires then ask for help or consider paying for an install.
Stock engine bay.
Tools that I used for this install.
Jack
Jack stand
1/2" Torque wrench 10-150 ft lbs
1/2" x 12" breaker bar
1/2" x 3" extension
1/2" x 9" extension
1/2" x 17mm socket
1/2" x 19mm socket
Wheel lug nut adapter
Electronic screw gun w/ 3/8" socket adapter
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" x 8mm socket
3/8" x 10mm socket
3/8" x 10mm deep well socket
3/8" x 12mm socket
3/8" swivel
3/8" x 3" extension
3/8" x 6" extension
Small needle nose pliers
Diagonal side cutters
Medium sized pliers
10mm open-ended wrench
Wire strippers/ crimper
Very small flathead screwdriver
Medium sized flathead screwdriver
Panel removal tool
Box cutter
5 different colors of at least 18 gauge wire (preferably red, blue, green, white and gray but I used yellow instead of gray)
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Paper towels
Drop Light
The first step is to remove the negative and positive battery terminal, tie down and battery.
Remove these 2 bolts that hold this piece of factory piping to the battery box and remove the piping.
Remove the battery tray. There are 4 bolts that hold this in place (2 shown here and one on each side of the bottom.)
Loosen the 2 clamps on the stock intake tube from the air box to the throttle body.
Remove the top of the air box by popping off the 2 clips (one on each side) and removing the air filter.
Remove the bottom of the stock air box by removing the 10mm bolt at the bottom right of the box. Lift up the box as far as possible and locate the two 10mm bolts that hold the air box bracket to the frame rail. (This is not very easy to do and the removed bracket as well as where it was mounted are pictured below.) There are 2 wire bundles attached to the bracket. One must be slid off and the other pinched and pushed out. Turn the box counter clockwise so that you can get to the wire bundle (pinch and push type) that is attached to the bracket and remove it.
Air box mounting bracket.
Air box mounting bracket holes are just under the pictured wire bundle.
At this point, we need to jack up the front left side of the car and remove the front left wheel (use a jack stand for safety).
Pictured is the inner fender well, which must be removed by removing the 3 pictured plastic clips. (Note: 2 of these 3 broke when I removed them despite trying to carefully and properly remove them).
2 more clips of the bottom side of the inner fender well must be removed. Once all 5 of these clips are out, maneuver the inner fender well out of the way starting with the bottom front corner and pulling down and back.
Inside the inner fender well is home to the factory intake resonator box which I had previously removed so I have no pics of that. Both the resonator and the "sound tube" must be removed at this time. The sound tube runs up and over the wheel well towards the drivers door.
I removed the ECU to facilitate the routing of new wires but this is not required. It just makes life a bit easier later. To do this, there are two 10mm bolts (1 on each side of the ecu), 2 brackets that hold onto the wire bundle under it that slide off, and 3 wiring connectors on the back of it (these connectors come off by carefully pulling down on the release bar and then gently pulling out on the connector).
Last edited:
