DIY 2012+ Innovative Motor Mounts (All)

[edd]

The plan for my car in 2015 is autocross and light time attack, I read how comparable Innovative mounts are to Hasport mounts, I decided to pull the trigger and go into no mans land (as far as I'm aware) I Opted for the 70a which are designed for track. Several Friends said that would be way too stiff for daily driving, also from a buddy who only swapped out his rear for the hasport 62a at one point.

The price point was very appealing for the set of three, I ordered them through @axion_industries and a week later they were on my doorstep.

http://stores.axionind.com/2012-civic-si-replacement-innovative-mount-kit/

Before I get into specifics I want to thank my good buddies from Project One who came out on a Sunday in 30 Degree weather freezed their buns and supported this swap!

The Goods



Initial Thoughts

My teeth will be chattering now, the stiffness of the polyurethane was really noticeable in my hand, impressive welds, quality design and coat, missing ground wire holes but Made in Merica


Tools Needed
Great cordless impact gun, extension, 10, 14, 17 deep socket, pry bar, screwdriver, jack jackstands and a nice flat block of wood (to lift the engine from the pan)

Time Required
4 Hours top, 2 people


First things first

Driver side mount (The bottle was almost empty when we got it haha)

Passenger side mount

Rear

Passenger side Remove Torque mount (set aside/ scrap)

Remove Ground
Would Have been nice if I could ground it out at this location (To be continued)

We were tripping over our own feet on this one, used a hoist when it really wasn't necessary or practical although due to the amount of projects going on simultaneously we had no option.. Doing this over again we will use a jack and lift the frame, place jack stands on the chassis, and then with a plate of wood on the jack support the engine during removal of the Mount.

Note - I happened to be the guy that ended up missing two bolts and nuts.. This may be a rare occurrence

We have a picture later in this thread for the driver side, which is similar the new mount requires a bolt and nut to run through it that then gets held into the bracket..

The mounting bracket that sat on the top of the motor mount goes back in its position on the chassis, torque mount gets ditched and the ground wire (for now) gets moved between the mount and nut.

Issues we had outside of packaging with bolts, the mounting hole on the mount for the stud (picture above) was not wide enough for the bottom mushroomed part to fit, while installing we noticed the front bolt still had space as we were bottoming out, our solution to that was to use several washers to get the gap eliminated on the front (bolted side). You could however drill the hole bigger if you had the capabilities, we didn't want to do this, adding washers covers the gap well enough

Note
I contacted @axion_industries which will contact Innovative, the issues we had may no longer arise in the future.

 

[edd]

Onto the Drivers Side

Start by removing intake, then ECU cover, remove mounting bolts 2 one on top between reservoirs other on bottom by mount and 3 nuts in total, position ECU out of way with connections attached (I disconnected the battery just to be safe)



Notice this other Ground coming off of the mount to the chassis (Will have to be relocated)

I am running a steel braided clutch line through the O.G. clutch line bracket after doing a em1 CMC swap (Is this a good location to secure the line?)

Touching chassis and Trans works for me.
The hoist did us well, after 10 minutes of diagnosing it haha

Lift Point on the Trans (Disregard just use jack stand and jack with wood method)

Note
I said earlier I happened to be the lucky customer stock bolts will not work for new mounts, designs are different, as well as lengths we ended up buying a Grade 8 1/2 bolt, which worked well, although it was a hassle running back to Lowes several times..
Modifying is always about hitting obstacles right? Hook was wedged on the new mount, we just loosened the bracket holding the eyelit (Did I say stick with a jack yet?)

Surprisingly the driver side was smooth as butter, although we had to relocate the ground which we just moved to another point on the chassis to reach the trans.

 

[edd]

This option being cheaper than the Hasport showed its flaws, although we worked around them and there may be a R&D issue, we worked the bugs out ourselves and saved my wallet over $150 compared to Hasport. At this point with my car, I don't believe anything is plug and play anymore so I'm willing to do some modifying in order to get it where I want it to be.

First Test drive Impression

Sure did rumble and vibrate at low RPMs while disengaging the clutch into gear, was expecting my teeth to chatter at a low idle I did not (Will be saving me money on dentist visits lol) although I feel the engine vibrations through my seat, being 75A my friends expected a rough ride, It wasn't as bad as they thought. I did a few pulls and it just feels like the engine and chassis are one and it brings me much closer to the car. We did a few revs while in the garage and the engine did not budge at all, it really is welded to my chassis now

I think I've made a real good decision with the mounts, but then again I enjoy performance over comfort, and the stress of modifying which I think is a drug, besides that wheel hop is gone baby

I will try my best to answer your questions, I am still getting a hang for writing up threads.


Driving Characteristics

(Update) 12/30/14 I drove the car all week with no issues, everything is tight a it should be. Through 2 days of 40 mile round trip commuting half city half highway the car is very tight. From stop sign to stop sign or bumper to bumper, the dips in RPM while engaging the clutch are vigorous, I suffer from a lack of torque down low due to RBC so if I try to take off while rolling forward in 2nd gear it isn't brutal but very clear it needs more fuel..

Highway pulls are twice as enjoyable due to the motor staying down rather than trying to pop up when I downshift and nail it, as far as red light pulls I'm experiencing slipping from my winter tires, but the biggest problem wheel hop is gone. I can imagine launching at 4K with slight traction issues on great tires in the summer time.


This may be related to the motor mounts, I'm currently on Tein street advance coils and have strut and sway bar, hitting off ramps has been my favorite thing since installing the mounts I feel that I can corner faster and harder, almost feels like I can point the car in a direction and It will get there.. I'll have to leave my confidence until the track day, but for now it sure has increased the pleasure of driving everyday

(To be continued)

Thanks for checking it out

 

[edd]

I did not mention or take pictures of the rear motor mount since it is the easiest and most common, you may follow @squiggy thread on the rear Hasport mount (http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2012-civic-si-hasport-rear-motor-mount-installation.9444/) for help with install.

However we found that we needed to remove the bracket on the oil pan do to the tightness of the new mount

 

[Nix]

Nice work man! Thanks for posting this and all the pics. I think your write up is pretty straight forward and easy to read. I added the "DIY" tag on the thread name for you.

At this point with my car, I don't believe anything is plug and play anymore so I'm willing to do some modifying....

A true mechanic/enthusiast/modder.

 

[edd]

Thanks bud I appreciate that

Also thank you for the link, I got pretty tired earlier!

 

[323]

Great writeup! I'll be using it when I buy the other 2 mounts.

 

[edd]

Are you going innovative or Hasport bro?

I'd be willing to help out if needed

 

[323]

I'm gonna go with Hasport. I have their rear mount already and it's just excellent quality. A little more, but worth it I think.

 

[2012FG4]

Getting the mounts into the bracket is kicking my a$$ any tips on how you got yours in? or did they just slide in for you?

 

[2012FG4]

disregard I asked before i gave it any thought lol

 

[edd]

It is a tight fit it takes a lot of force, I was considering using wd40 but decided not too and apply more pressure. The rear mount is a pain I might have to add that to the write up.

Removing the rear bracket was required for me

 

[edd]

Update more pics, cleaned up version 1.4

Engine bay pics coming tomorrow Happy New Year

 

[edd]

Bump finally got around to the pics, as you can see on the passenger side mount I added the washers underneath the mount to allow the bolt to sit flush.

On the rear stud added the washers on top of the mount and sandwiched the ground.

I ran the torque mount bolt back in its place although I may get rid of it since its an eye sore.

Just a few steps I had to take to make things work, as I said this may not be a reoccurring problem for those who purchase these mounts.

 

[2012FG4]

question trying to get the rear mount in but even with removing the bracket i can't get the bracket back in please help?

 

[squiggy]

question trying to get the rear mount in but even with removing the bracket i can't get the bracket back in please help?

Are you using a jack to support the engine? Get it close and then you can pull on the engine as needed to line it up right.

 

[edd]

Use a pry bar and shove the mount back towards the rear then get the bracket back in and tighten the bolts.

Use a screwdriver and try to get the mount hole to line up after

 

[edd]

Yea we lifted the engine as high as we could it helped some

 

[squiggy]

I just did it with four jack stands, a jack, and a piece of wood. A pry bar shouldn't really be needed, but could be helpful if the car is on a lift or you have help. If you only have the car on two jack stands, you are going to have a tough time getting it to line up.

 

[edd]

This rear mount may be different than Hasport, it took a lot of force to get them in, also depending on stiffness I guess.