Nix
Jötunn Moderator
If you are running stock steelies then don't bother but, if you buy a more open design wheel you will see the drums in the rear and they look BAD.
Here's a quick how-to on getting rid of the nasty appearance of rusted drum brakes on DX/LX models. After talking to a couple Honda people, the new DX/LX models should be able to follow these same steps to change out their drums. The pics are of my 8th gen but the process is the same.
Choices are paint them with caliper paint or get them powder coated. I went with new drums and had them powder coated. If your drums are fairly new you may be able to get them prepped and coated without buying new ones. Sometimes excessive rust will cost more to "prep" and refinish than just buying new ones. Also you can't drive your car while you wait.
A new drum for a 2012 civic is part #42610-TR3-A00
They should run about $30 each.
The prep and powder coat cost me $50 since they were new and clean.
I had mine done locally at a place called Rochester Vibratory & Assembly
http://www.rochestervibratory.com/
You will need to remove your old drums first. There are two holes on each drum to thread in a bolt to help push the drum off. You can use brake cleaner and pry it off but this is much easier and doesn't risk any damage to the drum.
Bolts: 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch, you need two, a bag like this was 0.62 cents at home depot. These were 25mm long which is plenty.
If you are unsure of the bolts you can always drag a drum with you and make sure they fit. I did. The bolts should thread right in by hand. This is the drum after power coat with the bolts.
I got bronze vein coating. You can see the texture close up.
Once you have your drums go outside and jack up your car. Use jack stands and chock your wheels for safety. You have to release the parking brake also. To take the old drum off just put the two bolts you purchased into the holes and tighten them evenly. You will hear the drum breaking free. I lubed both of the bolts to help them go in easier. See how bad they look? Happens really quickly.
With the drum off it should look very similar to this. I used a shopvac to suck out all the old brake dust. Don't breathe it in! You can also inspect your shoes and make sure nothing is leaking, no wet spots.
The new drum should just slip right onto the studs.
Tighten the wheel back up and you are done! Then go do the other side. The wheel is what holds the drum on. The drum and hub should turn freely without dragging. I noticed that the right side had some drag to it at first. We pushed on the drum and it went away so its possible that until the wheel is bolted up its not perfectly in place and could contact the shoes. So bolt up your wheel while its still raised and see if it spins freely. Torque it down to proper specs once you have lowered the car.
For comparison... looks better yea?
I do have an update on this I just need to go out and take some pics. Will update later today.
Here's a quick how-to on getting rid of the nasty appearance of rusted drum brakes on DX/LX models. After talking to a couple Honda people, the new DX/LX models should be able to follow these same steps to change out their drums. The pics are of my 8th gen but the process is the same.
Choices are paint them with caliper paint or get them powder coated. I went with new drums and had them powder coated. If your drums are fairly new you may be able to get them prepped and coated without buying new ones. Sometimes excessive rust will cost more to "prep" and refinish than just buying new ones. Also you can't drive your car while you wait.
A new drum for a 2012 civic is part #42610-TR3-A00
They should run about $30 each.
The prep and powder coat cost me $50 since they were new and clean.
I had mine done locally at a place called Rochester Vibratory & Assembly
http://www.rochestervibratory.com/
You will need to remove your old drums first. There are two holes on each drum to thread in a bolt to help push the drum off. You can use brake cleaner and pry it off but this is much easier and doesn't risk any damage to the drum.
Bolts: 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch, you need two, a bag like this was 0.62 cents at home depot. These were 25mm long which is plenty.
If you are unsure of the bolts you can always drag a drum with you and make sure they fit. I did. The bolts should thread right in by hand. This is the drum after power coat with the bolts.
I got bronze vein coating. You can see the texture close up.
Once you have your drums go outside and jack up your car. Use jack stands and chock your wheels for safety. You have to release the parking brake also. To take the old drum off just put the two bolts you purchased into the holes and tighten them evenly. You will hear the drum breaking free. I lubed both of the bolts to help them go in easier. See how bad they look? Happens really quickly.
With the drum off it should look very similar to this. I used a shopvac to suck out all the old brake dust. Don't breathe it in! You can also inspect your shoes and make sure nothing is leaking, no wet spots.
The new drum should just slip right onto the studs.
Tighten the wheel back up and you are done! Then go do the other side. The wheel is what holds the drum on. The drum and hub should turn freely without dragging. I noticed that the right side had some drag to it at first. We pushed on the drum and it went away so its possible that until the wheel is bolted up its not perfectly in place and could contact the shoes. So bolt up your wheel while its still raised and see if it spins freely. Torque it down to proper specs once you have lowered the car.
For comparison... looks better yea?
I do have an update on this I just need to go out and take some pics. Will update later today.
