2012 Civic Audio Wiring Guide & Pinouts For Factory Radio

[webby]

yeah there really shouldn't be too much of an issue with that. I'm sure your speaker wire from the amp to the speakers is much higher quality than the oem speaker wire going to the speakers though. Someone else can maybe chime in on if it'd really make much difference

 

[mySIck]

yeah there really shouldn't be too much of an issue with that. I'm sure your speaker wire from the amp to the speakers is much higher quality than the oem speaker wire going to the speakers though. Someone else can maybe chime in on if it'd really make much difference

I ended up wiring it straight to the speaker instead the post amp for now until I can get more time to play around with it. With it plugged straight into the speaker it works but I believe I might try to go get another amp to try out I feel the amp I have right now is not up to par with what I got.

 

[fahnix]

The impedance of the speakers along with wire length will dictate how thick your speaker wire should be. Lower impedance will result in shorter recommended wire runs, but with the typical car speakers being 4 ohms you should be fine even with the factory wiring which I think is 16 or 18 gauge. Either of which will be more than enough unless you're increasing the wattage significantly.

 

[mySIck]

The impedance of the speakers along with wire length will dictate how thick your speaker wire should be. Lower impedance will result in shorter recommended wire runs, but with the typical car speakers being 4 ohms you should be fine even with the factory wiring which I think is 16 or 18 gauge. Either of which will be more than enough unless you're increasing the wattage significantly.

Yea I bumped up to 2.5 ohm and 300w peak for each speaker and a 800w 1 or 2 ohm sub.

 

[mySIck]

Sorry my sub is 300w RMS and peak 600w

 

[fahnix]

Hmm, that's actually a pretty significant difference considering the stock system was 360w in it's entirety. You could probably get away with the stock wiring, but if that were me, I'd run 14 gauge, 16 at a minimum. In audio, resistance ain't your friend, and the smaller the wire, the more resistance. The rule of thumb I would go by is if you've got more than 75w RMS to the speaker then you're want to step up to at least 16 gauge. That coupled with you stepping down to 2.5 ohms you're looking at a fair amount of current moving. So i'd do 14 to be sure that wiring doesn't become your bottleneck.

 

[mySIck]

I bought the Rockford amp wire kit that came with some nice 16G speaker cable I have ran now to all me speakers. I have a 5ch amplifier and I put each speaker on its own channel should I bridge them?

 

[fahnix]

I bought the Rockford amp wire kit that came with some nice 16G speaker cable I have ran now to all me speakers. I have a 5ch amplifier and I put each speaker on its own channel should I bridge them?

That 16g with the kit should be good.

Naw. Don't bridge for the speakers. One channel per speaker and one channel for the sub.

 

[Quinten Crawford]

OK, so i know there is a ton of information around here but some stuff contradicts another. Some say you only need a simple LOC (kicker, etc.). Some say you need a way to balance the differential inputs with an Amp that allows it or something like the JL Loc 22 or JL Cleansweep. Heck, there are even some post stating they just ran a RCA with one end cut off spliced to the back of the HU.

So i'm just trying to get my info straight for my 13 si w/out Nav.

I don't have the cash to shell out for the JL or Kicker amps that accept balanced differential inputs so i went with the Scoshe SLC4 since it was recommended on crutchfield and allows the adjustment of the gain. I am planning on tapping the E5/E7 subwoofer outputs on connector E(8p). I got a fuse tap to run my remote wire. In theory the SLC4 should work for me to adjust the signals coming out the back of the HU right? I've read that the levels coming from the HU are too low and people will get low to no sound.

Another question is if the SLC4 will work could i run it off the connections from the sub in the trunk that way the connection from the slc4 is closer to the amp and sub?

 

[webby]

OK, so i know there is a ton of information around here but some stuff contradicts another. Some say you only need a simple LOC (kicker, etc.). Some say you need a way to balance the differential inputs with an Amp that allows it or something like the JL Loc 22 or JL Cleansweep. Heck, there are even some post stating they just ran a RCA with one end cut off spliced to the back of the HU.

So i'm just trying to get my info straight for my 13 si w/out Nav.

I don't have the cash to shell out for the JL or Kicker amps that accept balanced differential inputs so i went with the Scoshe SLC4 since it was recommended on crutchfield and allows the adjustment of the gain. I am planning on tapping the E5/E7 subwoofer outputs on connector E(8p). I got a fuse tap to run my remote wire. In theory the SLC4 should work for me to adjust the signals coming out the back of the HU right? I've read that the levels coming from the HU are too low and people will get low to no sound.

Another question is if the SLC4 will work could i run it off the connections from the sub in the trunk that way the connection from the slc4 is closer to the amp and sub?

Read this post. It explains it as far as premium audio versus non premium and differential inputs.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2013-civic-premium-audio-system-navigation-stereo-upgrade.10207/

 

[Ralph619]

I am installing a audio control Lc6i all the wires are coded correctly except on my car the lt front tweeter wires color are the same as the lt front door, pink and light green. The output plug off the factory amp has all the correct colors as stated. Is it safe to follow this pinout posted? Please help lol

I’m looking to install a LC7i how was the sound ??

 

[Kaza]

Can someone explain me, which wire represents which part of car please. I'm upgrading my stereo to android 10.0 head unit. Which has very less clips.
Problems I'm facing right now are
cannot figure out which wire related to Steering wheel control. Idk what else I'm missing. So much headache. I been trying to look for some video step by step for last 5days and I couldn't figure out since non of them showed which wire goes where exactly.

Please help

 

[webby]

Can someone explain me, which wire represents which part of car please. I'm upgrading my stereo to android 10.0 head unit. Which has very less clips.
Problems I'm facing right now are
cannot figure out which wire related to Steering wheel control. Idk what else I'm missing. So much headache. I been trying to look for some video step by step for last 5days and I couldn't figure out since non of them showed which wire goes where exactly.
View attachment 61339
Please help

What year/model/trim is your car?

 

[Kaza]

What year/model/trim is your car?

Its Honda Civic 2012 Ex-L

 

[webby]

Its Honda Civic 2012 Ex-L

do you live in the united states? Your radio should be the premium audio unit which is shown in the 1st post if you do.

 

[Kaza]

do you live in the united states? Your radio should be the premium audio unit which is shown in the 1st post if you do.

Yes I live in US. And its premium audio.
I'm take picture of what wiring i have to attach with car's wire

 

[webby]

Yes I live in US. And its premium audio.
I'm take picture of what wiring i have to attach with car's wire

I just realized you have the navigation premium setup. No one has posted that wiring diagram. If you want access to the diagrams like you see in this thread, you'll either need a hookup from someone who works at honda, or you'll have to get a subscription to their online database. They have access that you can pay for 1 day of access for $25 (or however long you want), and it'll allow you to pull and save whatever data and diagrams you need.

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx

 

[Kaza]

I just realized you have the navigation premium setup. No one has posted that wiring diagram. If you want access to the diagrams like you see in this thread, you'll either need a hookup from someone who works at honda, or you'll have to get a subscription to their online database. They have access that you can pay for 1 day of access for $25 (or however long you want), and it'll allow you to pull and save whatever data and diagrams you need.

https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx

I'm trying to connect the after market Head Unit
Is there anyways you can help me out. Everything seems to work except for steering wheel controls and I just wanna know what are those wires in first pictures.
I'm doing this stereo

 

[webby]

I have no idea about that aftermarket unit. You could contact the seller and ask if you have to purchase a steering wheel kit separately. I know most users have to buy an ASWC-1 for steering wheel controls on aftermarket name brand units.

https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2012&Make=Honda&Model=Civic&TrimOption[]=w/ NAV

 

[Yassine]

I'm trying to connect the after market Head Unit
Is there anyways you can help me out. Everything seems to work except for steering wheel controls and I just wanna know what are those wires in first pictures.
I'm doing this stereo
View attachment 61343 View attachment 61344 View attachment 61342

There are no wires for the steering buttons control. These buttons are canbus controlled. You have to have a canbus decoder to purshase from the seller of the aftermarket HU