DIY Add Temperature to LX
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Pauly99to17
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Yes, that. ^^
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Pauly99to17
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There is a hole. The plastic bracket clicks into place.
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Pauly99to17
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This shows the location of the hole. On the driver's side behind the bumper.
poindexter423
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If anyone wants a "cleaner" and likely more waterproof setup, the temperature sensor is the same connector as the power steering fluid pressure switch. Dorman makes a connector, part number 645-203 for $15-20
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sunofwolf
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- Vehicle Model
- Civic SI
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- Coupe
my dodges all work never had to do much at all except put a piece of black tape over the check engine light-all fixed.
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This diy is to show the outside air temperature. It’s not showing engine temps or whatever.
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certain trim levels in 2012 didn't have it from the factory, so that's what this thread was about. 
Janz3n
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old thread. those solder joints and no use of heat shrink on them makes me cringe. also no use of a plug is no good. i see someone noted a part number to a plug that will work though.
Driver1911
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Any good tech know how this mod would have caused a short circuit to the PCM causing a flashing D on the gear indicator, a check transmission on the IMIDI and a "DTC p0966 A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (open or short)"? I followed the instructions in this mod, and am skeptical that this mod caused the issue but that is what the dealership is telling me, that wires from the temp sensor going to pin 8 and 24 must have caused a short to the PCM. They recommend replacing the PCM, an $800 dollar plus fix.
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that's a pressure sensor on the transmission telling the car when to switch gears. They commonly fail, and it would have nothing to do with your dash temperature gauge. The last time someone had me look one up, I want to say they were around $100 or so, and they just screw into the transmission with a washer.
Driver1911
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Update, its fixed. The Temp Mod had nothing to do with the transmission problem. It was a missing fuse inside the cabin fuse panel, fuse #7. I had removed it during the Mod because it was a fuse link that had previously been part of a power supply modification that was part of a stereo system the previous owner had installed. I didn't know it was also powering the PCM or transmission and didn't think it had any thing to do with my transmission issues. Once I replaced it every thing worked fine again. The Temp mod to my 2012 LX is working great and maybe in a few days I'll include some tips if any one still is interested in doing this mod to there LX. I think I did a professional job but there are some tricky parts especially regarding the Tack cluster pin connector.
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Glad to hear it was a simple fix
Driver1911
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A few suggestions to anyone still wanting to do this mod would be to take off the bumper, install the temp sensor to the left inside part of the aluminum bumper with the OEM clip bracket (the bracket should just snap right into the predrilled square slot in the aluminum bumper), and used Dorman connector 645-203
I soldered the Dorman connector to 16 guage stranded wires that were in an insulated sheath and then heat shrunk them for protection (I would recommend no larger than 18 gauge wires though because of the way the JAE pins fit into the tach pin cluster) . Over the heat shrink I heat shrunk the wires and insulation with a 4 foot piece of heat shrink 1/4 inch in diameter all the way from the connector 4 feet toward the fire wall so there would be no way of water getting in the new wires. Then I put the wires in a 3/8th inch black corrugated conduit for further protection. As far a routing from the bumper I feed the corrugated wires up around and through the same hole as where the headlight goes through the frame, then around the battery, and to the inside of the PCM/ECM and then under the master cylinder. Next through the rubber plug directly toward the firewall behind the master cylinder. With the wires through the fire wall and the dash taken apart, its relativity easy to feed the wires under the dash and up to the wiring harness that plugs into the Tachometer. I would say the trickiest part is installing the wires into the tach pin connector cluster. As you can see from picture
1.
there is a black tab that must be popped up (I would say only about 1/16 of and inch) in order for the JAE pins to slide into pin connectors 8 and 24. Use a jewlers flat screwdriver that fit into little slots to pop up the black tab. There are videos on youtube that show kinda how to do this. None of the ones I found showed this kind of connector but some were close. The JAE pins have to be crimped just right but its not too hard, however they go in only one way as there is a grove that slides into a channel. See photo, see the little slot or channel in each pin port
With the black tab popped up, wires crimped, gently push the JAE pin in to connector 8 and then 24 with a jewelers screwdriver until it ever so softly snaps into place all the way at the back of the connector. Pop down the black tab and connect the wire pin cluster to the Tach and then reinstall everything and it should work great!
I soldered the Dorman connector to 16 guage stranded wires that were in an insulated sheath and then heat shrunk them for protection (I would recommend no larger than 18 gauge wires though because of the way the JAE pins fit into the tach pin cluster) . Over the heat shrink I heat shrunk the wires and insulation with a 4 foot piece of heat shrink 1/4 inch in diameter all the way from the connector 4 feet toward the fire wall so there would be no way of water getting in the new wires. Then I put the wires in a 3/8th inch black corrugated conduit for further protection. As far a routing from the bumper I feed the corrugated wires up around and through the same hole as where the headlight goes through the frame, then around the battery, and to the inside of the PCM/ECM and then under the master cylinder. Next through the rubber plug directly toward the firewall behind the master cylinder. With the wires through the fire wall and the dash taken apart, its relativity easy to feed the wires under the dash and up to the wiring harness that plugs into the Tachometer. I would say the trickiest part is installing the wires into the tach pin connector cluster. As you can see from picture
1.
With the black tab popped up, wires crimped, gently push the JAE pin in to connector 8 and then 24 with a jewelers screwdriver until it ever so softly snaps into place all the way at the back of the connector. Pop down the black tab and connect the wire pin cluster to the Tach and then reinstall everything and it should work great!
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Driver1911
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The first immage that didn't work on my last post was of Dorman connector 645-203
to the left is Picture #1. Don't know why those photos on my last post didn't work but here is try
to the left is Picture #1. Don't know why those photos on my last post didn't work but here is try
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I tried to fix your post, but I'm not sure if it's how you wanted it. You would need to upload the photos directly to your post by clicking the "upload a file" button next to the "post reply" button, or post them to another image hosting site. The site you were trying to link the images from doesn't work here.